It’s always exciting to get a new skincare product, but the hard part is figuring out where it should go in your routine, especially when it comes to acids. In this blog, we will explore how to layer acids in your skincare.
As humans, we are not born with the knowledge of how to apply certain ingredients. This is unfortunate, since what you use and how you use it matter greatly. The wrong way to layer ingredients (particularly acids) can result in ineffective results or even irritate your skin to the point that you are discouraged from using skincare products at all. Trust me, I have been there, and it is still a learning process!
I believe that since it might be quite a lot to take in (especially if you are just getting started), the first step in understanding how to layer acids is to understand the basics and grasp the general knowledge about the most popular and well-known acids out there! Cause trust me there are many and this article alone will not be able to cover them all.
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Acids General knowledge
You probably have heard of exfoliants. Well, acids are considered exfoliators. The latter helps remove dead skin cells from the skin.
Exfoliators can be either physical or chemical. Typically, physical (or manual) exfoliants contain sugar to slough away dead skin cells.
Chemical exfoliators, however, are more complicated and are the subject of this article, which will examine how they work and how to apply them optimally.
Correctly exfoliating your skin can make a huge difference to your skin’s appearance. In addition to helping to keep your skin smooth, it also helps to clear pores and prevent acne.
You may not think it is a good or safe idea to put acid on your face but let me tell you that it isn’t harmful. Essentially, it works by loosening and removing sebum, and dead skin cells from your skin.
AHAs and BHAs are the two most common types of chemical acids.
Chemical acids AHA & BHA
Among the two most common types of exfoliants found in skincare products are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). They both work as exfoliants, but they do so in different ways.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are derived from sugars, and their primary job is to help with skin peeling. The most common AHAs in skincare products are:
Glycolic acid and lactic acid (are the most common ones), but there is also citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and mandelic acid.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble.
Despite of the various types of BHA, salicylic acid, which is derived from willow bark, is the most common one to be aware of for now.
Which one is more effective?
Although they can be highly effective, it is important to know which one works for you and your skin type. This is particularly true given how many there are.
When using AHA’s as your main acid you should know that it has water which means that it penetrates the skin more easily. Because of this, it is more suitable for people with sensitive skin.
If your skin is dry, flaky, or dull, AHAs can also help. When dead skin cells are removed by AHAs, such as glycolic acid, moisturizing products applied on top can penetrate the skin more easily, enhancing their effectiveness. Moreover, they are useful for targeting signs of ageing, such as fine lines and wrinkles.
The one that is suitable for dry, sensitive skin
If you have sensitive skin or are new to AHAs, it is recommended to use lactic acid, a gentler AHA that results in milder exfoliation. You can even use mandelic acid which is even milder than lactic acid. Occasionally, individuals with dark skin (like myself) can experience a paradoxical darkening of their skin when using AHAs, so they should use them with caution and under medical supervision.
By penetrating deeper into pores, BHAs, such as salicylic acid, loosen dead skin cells and relieve clogged pores. They can help reduce blackheads and pimples. They are therefore suitable for oily or acne-prone skin. Additionally, salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe inflamed, red skin and brighten the complexion.
But if you want to give it a try and think it might help you even though you may suffer from sensitive skin, it is advised to go for the lowest percentage. A 2% would work all right as a start.
Considering BHA
BHA is more potent, and it penetrates the skin deeper than an AHA would. This is why many would argue that an AHA is more suitable for people with dry and sensitive skin (as already mentioned).
However, everyone’s skin is different and just because you suffer from dry sensitive skin, does not mean that you cannot use a BHA.
BHAs are more potent and penetrate deeper than AHAs, so an AHA is not necessary if you use an effective BHA. You probably have come across ads or even social media posts about someone promoting and praising the BHA Paula’s Choice exfoliant! Well, they are not wrong! The product has been proven to work for many people, and it is effective in fighting bumpy skin, acne and pimples and leaves the skin supple and glowy. In addition to reducing spots, it reduces new breakouts by combining spot-reducing salicylic acid with soothing green tea.
Having used it myself, I’ll be writing a review of the product soon.
Additional acids –
Other than AHA and BHAs there is even a new generation of acids called polyhydroxy acids, which do not penetrate as deeply as their counterparts and thus are good for more sensitive skin types. Stay tuned for a blog about it 😉
Besides, you should also be aware of hyaluronic acid, and you might be wondering whether it is part of AHA or BHA.
Well, it is not the case, rather, in skin care products, hyaluronic acid is used to bind moisture and increase skin hydration. In addition, it pairs well with any other ingredient, so you can incorporate it into your skincare routine easily.
You can apply it day or night since keeping hydrated is good at any time. 😉
What acids can be used together?
In theory, it’s fine, but the biggest problem is the side effects associated with combining both. Dry, red, irritated, and flaky skin can result from using these together.
Since everyone’s skin is different, the combination could be safe for some and even beneficial for others
There are some factors to consider, such as your age and skin type, as well as any particular skin complaints you may have. Age should be taken into consideration when combining acids.
It is certainly possible to combine AHAs and BHAs.
Keep reading to learn how to layer acids in your skincare routine. 🙂
Layering acids
It has been suggested to layer acids like double cleansing. Just as you wash your face with an oil cleanser first to remove oil, you’ll want to use an oil-soluble BHA first, and then follow with an AHA if your skin needs more moisture. By combining them in this way, they can deep clean your pores effectively.
How to layer acids in your skincare routine
It is important to exercise caution when it comes to layering and mixing acids used in skin care.
It is recommended that you apply AHA and BHA at different times of the day. BHA is recommended to be used in the morning and AHA at night. It is also possible to use them on alternate nights if necessary.
To avoid doubling up on the application of BHAs on any part of your skin, apply BHAs to oilier zones such as T-zones and AHAs to everything else. Acids can be layered over each other, but this increases the risk of irritation and dryness.
In terms of pH, AHAs and BHAs are close (both are between 3.0 and 4.0), so this is not a determining factor for the application. It is always best to apply the thinnest product first, followed by the thicker product if you are using them together.
Certain combinations may work well for some people, while others may become dry and irritated.
Combining AHAs and BHAs with hyaluronic acid is an excellent way to replenish the skin at the same time as ensuring that the acids aren’t too harsh.
When applying and using acids, you must follow up with an SPF afterwards. This applies to cold weather as well since the acids weaken your skin’s ability to block the sun.
What should not be mixed?
Just make sure not to over-exfoliate to avoid irritation. It is not recommended to layer AHA with other AHAs and vice versa.
Also, AHAs and BHAs should not be applied immediately after applying L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
For more info about this type of acid, check out this article here to learn more 🙂
Whenever you use topical acids, make sure you check the ingredients in your skincare routine, especially retinol and antioxidants like vitamin C.
It might be a good idea to use vitamin C products on different days or to apply them later in the day.
It is generally recommended not to mix vitamin C with AHAs and BHAs due to its exfoliating properties. Vitamin C can irritate the skin when combined with AHAs and BHAs.
You may also find useful to check out these articles 🙂
*Salicylic acid vs glycolic acid
*Salicylic acid and lactic acid together-is that possible?
*AHA 30-BHA 2 peeling solution vs lactic acid
*What is mandelic acid-heres explained
*Does azelaic acid cause purging a reddit question answered
*Vitamin c vs Retinol vs Hyaluronic acid what differs from them
*Is pantothenic acid good for your skin
*Pantothenic acid vs hyaluronic-acid
ALSO, the best thing to do is allow your skin to absorb one ingredient at a time so that overstimulation and adverse reactions are minimized.
If you are still confused, that is completely normal since acids are a bit confusing and you will learn something new every time; give it some time to sink in.
However, as a conclusion, I would like to help you further and make sure that you understand some of the key points about layering acids into your skincare routine as a beginning.
The following is a quick list of things to consider:
The most recommended tips
Here are some key points I hope you can take away from the article. Thank you for reading, and if you have any questions, please leave a comment down below! 🙂
